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Dawson’s Restaurant
The Mall (Above Heaton’s)
MY attitude to Dawson’s is a bit like my attitude to the TV series, Star Trek: The Next Generation.
When I was in college years ago my flatmates would insist on watching it and I’d groan ‘Oh God, not this again’. Five minutes later I’d be hooked on whatever shenanigans Captain Picard and Co would be getting up to on Planet Zog or wherever they were.
Similarly, whenever my wife or work colleague suggested we go for lunch there, ‘Star Trek’ syndrome with kick in and there would be a degree of reluctance for a reason I can’t put my finger on. Yet I always left satisfied.
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It was with this in mind that I took the trip upstairs from the ground floor of Heaton’s for a bite to eat. Dawson’s is the type of place where you take your tray, get in line and order from the waitress/waiter behind the counter.
This is grand once it’s quiet, but if it’s busy you’re playing a kind of ‘seat lottery’. The suspense is killing as you try to get to the end of the line to pay for your food before all the seats are taken.
The specials menu is on a blackboard on the way in and they had an impressive selection.
My pick of the bunch were Beef Bourguignon with rice and garlic and herb croutons; Homemade spring onion lamb burgers and brie, feta cheese, cherry tomato quiche with a choice of three salads all priced at €10.95
But I just fancied a sandwich, so I lined up and asked for the open salmon with three salads for €7.20.
I chose sweetcorn, broccoli and noodle salads and she put them on the plate next to and over the brown bread and salmon.
Right, I need to ask this: what is the story with the small plates?
The open sandwiches need, no, dammit they demand, a bigger plate to hold the food.
I ended up having to shepherd the food back into the plate with my knife and fork as if my noodles were wandering worms trying to escape (I must have looked odd to fellow diners giving short sharp whistles as I did this, like some deranged auditionee for ‘One Man And His Dog’).
Having said that, it was, of course, delicious and great value for money. The noodles had a tasty dressing, as did the crunchy broccoli and the sweetcorn was, er, sweet.
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Dawson’s is also in a great location for people-watching in the Mall, Denny Street and Castle Street below, if you can get a seat by the window. I finished off with an Americano at €2.50.
I’ll return less reluctantly the next time…and ask for a bigger plate.
3.5/5