The Chef’s Table: Get The Most Out Of Oysters

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rsz_mark_doe_1Oysters are in season and our food writer, Mark Doe of ‘Just Cooking’ in Firies, describes how to buy, open and cook them to perfection… 

Oysters, you either love them or hate them.

I haven’t always liked oysters, but discovered how good they are whilst working in Australia.

Australia now has its feet firmly stood on the culinary world and has a very unique and exciting style of Cuisine. A lot of the Pacific Rim cuisine has now been dumbed down  and Asian flavours are now being sensibly used.

Continued below…

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Oysters were very cheap over there so, on my days off, I would head to the food markets and buy a dozen.

Sometimes I would just eat them raw, with a glass of chilled white (Cloudy Bay, Chardonnay from New Zealand was always a favourite of mine) or maybe just grill them in the half shell with a little soy sauce, finely chopped scallion, finely grated ginger and coriander.

Most people are put of by the fact they can be eaten raw and never try them. But they take on a whole different texture and taste once lightly cooked.

I was born in Colchester in Essex and apart from Essex girls and Maldon sea salt; it is also home to some of the best oysters around.

Colchester Oysters are fished from Mersea Island and are eagerly awaited by the some of the UK’s finest restaurants and hotels.

In Ireland, Galway oysters are celebrated every year in September at the Galway Oyster festival where thousands of oysters are consumed over the four days.

Although available all year round, oysters are at their best in season from September to March.

Opening oysters.

This can be tricky and requires a little practice to avoid breaking any shell in to the oyster. You will need a good oyster knife with a guard and a tea towel.

Chefs often use a chain mail glove to prevent them stabbing themselves if the knife slips.

• Place the oyster in a folded tea towel, with the flat side facing upwards, and fold it over the oyster.

• Place the hinge of the oyster towards you and place a hand on top of the tea towel.

• Now push the oyster knife into the hinge of the oyster until it goes through the shell. You will have to push quite hard and twisting the knife back and forth a little helps.

• Once the knife is through the hinge give it a twist and the shell will loosen.

• Now run the knife carefully around the whole edge of the oyster and the top shell will come away.

• Run the knife gently under the oyster to release it form the shell.

• Remove any shell and serve.

Purchasing oysters

As with mussels, scallops and clams, only purchase oysters that are fully closed.

If they are open they are dead and should not be consumed.

Store the oysters in a fridge uncovered, preferably on a bed of crushed ice on a tray.

I have chosen a hot oyster recipe, but served raw they are best with a wedge of lemon, some brown soda bread and a pint of Guinness.

Also try them with a good quality balsamic vinegar mixed with some finely chopped shallot.

Grilled Oysters with soy sauce, ginger, scallions and coriander.

Serves 12

• 24 oysters, opened and kept in the half shell

• 4 tablespoons of chopped coriander

• 8 tablespoons of light soy sauce

• ½ tablespoon of finely grated fresh ginger

• Juice of 1 lime

• 4 scallions (spring onions), finely sliced

In a small bowl mix together the soy sauce, coriander, scallions, lime juice and ginger.

Place the opened oysters on a baking sheet. (A good layer of salt placed on the baking sheet will stop the oysters toppling over)

Spoon each oyster with some of the soy sauce mix.

Pre-heat your grill to a high setting.

Place the oysters under the grill and cook for 2-3 minutes until they are just cooked.

Serve.